This would be my first time reviewing a Airsoft hand grenade. Ever since starting in Airsoft I have always followed the many attempts to simulate the hand grenade of real life war fare. Though I would not call the simulation mastered by any means, it has come a long way as more people become interested in the sport and more companies get involved in the manufacturing process. This particular grenade is made by PFI and is powered by gas, and also uses powder to simulate the smoke of a real grenade The grenade is designed to fire off 8 BB’s and the operation is nearly exact to that of a real grenade.
First Impressions
The grenade came neatly packaged in a plastic cylinder, with nearly all of the parts separated. The first thing I did was grab the actual grenade shell, and realized it was a little lighter than expected. It looked pretty realistic in the container (and also does outside the container) so was not expecting it to be so light. On the other hand it makes sense that it is light, so the force of the gas going off can easily open the shell allowing the BB’s to get out. The plastic does seem to be pretty sturdy and so far so good in terms of the actual tests. I will say however that it is probably not a good idea to throw this thing over hand like you would a baseball. If you do put too much force on it, and it hits something hard like a rock, concrete, etc. it may break as it is after all still plastic. The directions also advise against this type of throw, so underhand or lobs are probably the best way to go.
I was impressed and blown away by the complexity of the grenade as I counted 7 pieces essential to the operation of the grenade, which must be assembled before each use. This to me seemed like a pain the first time but once I got used to the way it worked and understood it more, there really was not much to it at all. Printed clearly on the box is a sticker which states “This is a Toy”. That being said this toy does pack a punch. My first test of the product it actually startled me slightly with how powerful it was. My real question from the start however was how effective will this be as a tool in the game of Airsoft.
Operation
Here I am simply going to go through the way you set this grenade up for operation. First you take the gas can, which is the metal piece which goes into the grenade shell giving the live grenade its weight, and is the main operation component. You pour 8 BBs into the top. You can put more in but it is not recommended and I also do not believe they will all come out anyway. You then take one of the 10 provided caps for the gas can on. This cap is fairly difficult to get on, but once you get the hang of it its not too bad. On top of this you put one of the powder disks. Before putting the powder disk on you must remove the sticker which keeps the powder in.
Caps for the top of the gas can
You then open up the grenade shell and slide this gas can in there making sure the hole in the bottom for the gas matches up with the hole in the bottom of the plastic shell. Otherwise you will not be able to load the gas into the grenade. Now you close up the shell. To hold the shell close you put in the piece they call the “locking cap” into the top of the grenade. This has a sharp metal piece which goes all the way down to hold the grenade in place. Keeping the metal piece down is the handle, which is over the spring, and held in place by the pin. Now the grenade is fully together and ready to go.
The directions advertise a 6 second timer on the explosion. I have experienced a 2 second delay on the explosion, but this is apparently adjustable using the screws within the grenade. Adjusting the screws will change the amount of time it takes for the spring to pop once the handle is removed. From here you load the gas into the bottom of the grenade until it is full. The next step is to pull the pin and throw the grenade towards your target.
This is a shot inside of the shell without the gas can in it. You can see the screws which adjust the time.
Results
This grenade is one of the most fun Airsoft products I have used. The above process results in a satisfying explosion of sorts. This is accompanied by a puff of powder smoke, a decently loud noise, and the pieces of the grenade being spread out over a 30-40 foot area. The spread of the pieces is kind of annoying if you plan on finding them all. The easiest pieces to find are the handle, the shell, and the metal gas can. These are the larger parts and more important to the operation of the grenade. The two caps which go on the metal can are easily lost, but I have been able to recover both some of the time. But in the heat of a skirmish I would not expect this. They are fairly cheap and are sold separately so you can not worry about them at all if you prefer. But I think this causes each use of the grenade to be about 50 cents. This is not all that bad, but it would add up, so keep this in mind when you see the $50 MSRP and think that is not all that bad.
I personally feel like you can get by if you can simply recover the caps to cover the gas can. The powder discs are not essential to the operation of the gun, but do make it seem more real. They also say not to fill it with any powder but official PFI powder, but I doubt that it would make any difference if you put a different powder in there, as long as it is not dangerous. You also can probably go without powder at all, but that does take some of the fun out of it. So in my opinion if you plan on just buying the grenade, you can be a bit of a scavenger and avoid additional operation payments. On the other hand if you are not worried about paying the money you can buy the pieces in bulk and use it frequently without concern.
Now my main concern with this product is how effective would it be in action. The way the grenade is designed, all of the BBs will essentially shoot in the same direction, and when throwing or rolling the grenade, there is now way of knowing exactly which direction the top of the grenade will be facing upon detonation. Essentially it is like a 8 BB shotgun going off in a somewhat random direction, but it does go in a certain direction and not in all directions. If you are able to roll the grenade you can control the accuracy a little more, or if you get it to detonate in the air you have better accuracy. Now personally if I had this thing go off right next to me I probably be too startled to feel the BB’s hit me, but also would probably just call myself out from the shock. Once people know how it goes off it still will be effective as a tool since they will run away from their hiding place hopefully revealing themselves to AEG fire.
So though this product may not perform perfectly like a grenade, it will be a pretty darn good simulation. If they do not get hit with one of the BBs they may even get hit by one of the other parts of the grenade including the shell itself as that shoots off about 20-30 feet in the opposite direction of the BBs. Also the enemy reaction should be fairly similar to what it would be in a real military situation, if it were a real hand grenade. I also think this opens the door to a lot of booby trap set ups as you could aim it in a certain direction a dig up someway for the pin to be pulled.
Conclusion
Overall this product is a very fun addition to anyone’s arsenal. It is fun to toy around with, it will be effective on the battlefield, and is relatively cheap. Like I said before it has a $50 MSRP which is not bad, and assuming you lose the pieces you could lose every use it would cost about $0.50 per use, no including the gas cost. This could add up, but really is not that bad, and I would anticipate that you would only use it a couple times in a skirmish, as it is most effective in very specific situations.
Also please check out the video of this grenade to get a feel for exactly how it operates. If after seeing that, and reading this you think it is worth dishing out the $50 then go for it. Others may see it is not worth that price tag and that is fine too. This product does have a lot of additional value in addition the actual skirmish use. It is cool looking, looks real, and adds a new element to the game. Not to mention it is pretty intimidating and fun to use just for around the house. So if these sounds like its right up your alley I highly recommend it, but it is not for everyone.
By Meatball
Published: August 4, 2008
Updated: August 4, 2008 PrintEmail
Introduction
Well I received a large shipment of BBs from TSD Tactical with the following BB types for review; .20g, .20g Bio-180, .23g, .25g, .26g Bio-180, .28g. I have done extensive testing with each on several different guns form gas, electric to spring, and from powers ranging from 280 FPS to 475 FPS. The weakest gun used was the TSD 3-Burst shotgun and the most powerful was an upgraded VSR-10 by Tokyo Marui.
I personally have a lot of experience with TSD Tactical BBs because I have been using them exclusively for the past couple years. It was at first an economical choice since they were cheaper when bought by the 5,000 count bag, but after using them I realized that their quality also matched any other BB type I had previously used as well. So since then it is all I have used. I will go through each BB one at a time but you will find there is not much to say between the BBs besides the obvious differences between the Biodegradable pellets and the regular ones.
Bio-180 BBs
So to get right to the point, the Bio-180’s; are they worth it? This simply comes down to a matter of preference and opinion. The Bio-180 BBs are considerably more expensive with a more than 50% price increase. The .20g originals are $20 for 5,000 while the MSRP for 5,000 Bio’s is $33. But then again this is all relative as if you looked at the actual price of the Bio-180’s you would realize that it is still very affordable considering how many you are getting, and for any paintball converts out there you probably appreciate this price as well as it is not nearly as high as those for paintballs. So when it comes to price it is very affordable, but is considerably more expensive than the normal BBs.
So now it comes down to whether or not it is worth it to you. The BB’s are advertised to be organic and should breakdown within 180 days when exposed to soil, water, and sunlight. Unfortunately I have not had the BBs for over 180 days so I can not confirm this yet, but I will keep you updated with my testing. I have tested it long enough however to see that while a normal BB essentially goes unchanged, these do start to breakdown. So if your concern is the environment and the BBs breaking down, rest assured this product should get the job done. I can not say for certain however exactly how long of a process this is and what you can expect after 180 days, but even if it is a year I feel like that would be perfectly acceptable for most.
Now the second concern is whether or not you would be sacrificing not only some of the money in your wallet, but also some performance in your game. The answer to this is no. I have tested these BBs over and over again and I can not tell any difference between them and the normal BBs in flight patterns or anything of that sort. The Bio-180’s should hit their target just as effectively as the normal BBs.
The real question now thanks the solid performance of the product is whether or not the price tag is worth it to you, and how it affects the place where you play. So the decision is up to you. I also would like to point out that the Bio-180 BBs are "egg shell white" while the regular bbs are just white. It is a noticable difference as you can see in the picture below.
Regular BBs
Now if you decide that Bio-180s are not for you I will continue to discuss the regular BB’s and the different weights, but if you are expecting a different review on performance you are not going to find one. All of the BBs shot as expected and I would recommend all of them. So if you are not a stickler on BB weights, the rest may bore you.
The BB I probably tested the most was the .28g as I wanted to see if it made a big difference from .25g BBs in my VSR-10 (also used .26g Bios and you can just assume they shot the same as the .25g because they basically did). The testing went as expected, the .25g BB shot slightly harder (though barely noticeable) and also towards the end of the flight would tail off to one side or another. The side to which it tailed was consistent and I believe it was do to wind conditions. The .28g BBs shot with a little more consistency as one would expect, but would still tail, just further in the flight pattern and a little less noticeable. Now I am not big on sniping, I have tried it, I have had fun with it, but for the most part it is not for me. The way I snipe is I do not use a scope, I simply sneak around camp out, and weight for a good shot. So for the way I snipe .25g are perfectly acceptable solutions. But for those snipers who take things more seriously and really have a passion for it, you will be better off with the heavier BB just because it will make a difference for those really long range shots I know you love to challenge yourselves with.
When it comes to an upgraded AEG I would recommend .25g. Anything shooting over 350 I always like to use .25g simply because they add accuracy and do not seem to take off a significant enough amount of velocity. After tests my opinion was confirmed, and If you are shooting an upgraded AEG I would not let the extra gram scare you away from the .26g Bio-180’s if that is what you are interested in. The .20g’s also perform up to par with any .20g out there, and for stock AEGs and even upgraded AEGs they perform very well. If you are more a “spray and pray” type player, why pay extra for the more accurate BBs? Just stock up on the lighter ones.
The .23g BB kind of surprised me, as I had never encountered it before. There is a slight difference between its velocity and the .25g’s and also slightly more accurate than the .20g. So These BBs are kind of a middle ground which I think is really convenient. I may consider using these for any guns I have shooting in the 325-350 FPS range because they do shoot pretty accurate especially under normal shooting conditions (not much wind or anything) so would be worth having the extra velocity in some situations.
Conclusion
So overall I love TSD Tactical BBs and I recommend them to anyone. I would recommend .20 for stock Tokyo Marui AEG’s, .23g for guns shooting 325-330 FPS, and .25g for AEGs shooting 350 FPS +. If you are sniping mind as well go with the .28g or even if you have a power AEG for pride yourself in sharp shooting abilities. In those situations you do not use much ammo anyways, so the price should not really matter. With all of the options they provide there is bound to be the perfect BB for you, so I would try some of them out to figure out which kind you like.
By Engelderwahl
Published: January 26, 2008 PrintEmail
Right around this time last year I purchased a day pack manufactured by Miltec industries. Prior to this purchase I was looking for a backpack with several things in mind. As a sniper I want a place to stash my ghillie if I take it off in the field. I want a place to keep my water, my sidearm, extra ammo for my sidearm, and a toolkit in case I have technical difficulties. I know that I can keep all of these items on a web belt or in pouches, but that can make crawling across terrain more difficult. I wanted a backpack which could be cinched tightly to my back, and would not move even when I run. While searching for a pack which would fit these criteria I found tons of excellent choices, but most of them over $150. I understand quite well that a $150 is probably going to last me forever, however, I really only cared if the darn thing lasted me through the summer. So with this in mind I purchased my Miltec level 3 assault pack for $50 from sportsmans guide. Five days after my purchase, my pack arrived on my doorstep.
Here is a first look at this thing: -Notice the chest and waist straps. Both sets of straps are highly adjustable, and allow the pack to be tighted to fit your tastes. -The black back of this pack is thin pocket consisting of mesh material with a velcro top. I suppose you could put papers in here, not much else is gonna fit. -There is enough webbing to attach 4 M16 mag pouches on the sides of the pack, 2 per side. There is also webbing on the front of the pack, which you can see from the pictures. There is enough room that you can attach 2 M16 pouches and a Buttpack, 4 M16 pouches, or 2 Buttpacks (just for a size reference). -As you can see there is a small strip of velcro which you could use to attach name tape or a patch, my pack has name tape on it. -The bottom of the pack has 2 straps which allow you to cinch the pack as tight as you want, or you can loosen the straps to allow more storage room. -Theres also a strap that covers the top of the pack, which can also be tightened or loosened.
Lastly, here are some internal space pictures. -The large internal pocket will hold 2 2 liter bottles, with enough space for you to cram in your bdu's if you really squish them. -The upper outer pocket shown here is large enough to hold a 12oz can of pop. The bottom outer pocket shown here is large enough to hold 3 12oz cans of pop.
Theres also a couple small internal pockets which are perfect for storing identification, money, or other small items.
Durability One might not expect much durability from a pack which cost $50, but you'd be wrong. I bought this pack in January of 2006, long before I'd begin using it for airsoft. I used it the entire college semester for my books, carrying 25 pounds of books on a daily basis. Over the summer the pack performed exactly as I had hoped for. The following fall semester I continued to use it for school, carrying 25-30 pounds worth of books each day. There are no tears anywhere in the fabric, and no sign of any damage after a year of hard use.
Would I reccomend this pack? In a heartbeat. You can't find a better pack for the price, and it WILL last.
By Black Bird
Published: January 24, 2008 PrintEmail
King Arms G3 Mid Cap Mag Review
I had needed standard or midcap mags for events in Ohio so when I saw that Airsoft GI had them I decided to place an order.
Initial impressions They came in a small box with a picture of the mags on it along with the king arms logo. The mags are a nice flat black color but are made of plastic so their rather light. Still they feel solid. Now if you have a classic army G3 or classic army G3 metal body you will have to trim the top back corner of the mags otherwise they won't fit in. It only takes a few minutes to do with a dremel. If you try to force it you will break off the front of the mag well although it will still work because of the way the mags lock in.
Performance So after I trimmed them I loaded them up and took them out side to try them out. All the mags feed flawlessly on semi and full auto. I loaded them up again and got the same results. I was very relieved at this because I had heard of problems with KA's m14 midcaps not feeding well.
Pros Cheap (5 for 45 which is about the price of 2 TM standards) Feeds well Solid Hold 110 rounds
Cons Plastic Need work for classic army G3's
Conclusion If you've got a G3 and want something besides hicaps and don't want to spend a lot of money on TM standards go pick these up.
Many new airsofters yearn for many rounds of shooting pleasure with out having to reload every 40-300 rounds, and would like to have a cheap way of achieving this. So many people turn to the TOP 1000 round drum mags for the M16 and MP5. While I only owned the M16 variant, one of my good friends also has the MP5 variant. When I first got it, it was a nice, heavy piece of metal. Pretty sturdy, so I decided to pop about 600 rounds and give the baby a test drive. You load the bb's from the back of the mag, through a little slit that opens and closes. This can be a hassle if you do not have a bb bottle. Now, the first time my friend and I loaded up or mags we winded up the drum mag for first use. There is a small piece of metal that is attached by a screw that you must wind, like a hi-cap, to load the bb's. First couple shot in semi was fine, then came full auto. This is what disappointed me the most. In full auto mode the mag would only fire 5 shots and then about 1-2 blanks, and on the MP5 it was much worse. Least to say I was very disappointed. Then, comes the battle test, where I learn that the little piece of winding metal, does not stay on the mag. The screw comes lose and you end up losing it which leaves you with a nice big metal bb holder. I think this is a very poor product for the M16 as well as the MP5. You might as well save your money for a C-Mag, and stay away from this product!
By Comrade_MP
Published: March 23, 2007 PrintEmail
Inokatsu Steel (Metal) Kit review
Well here goes my first attempt at a review. I will probably ramble on about this or that, so bear with me.
I was on red wolf airsoft days ago and saw the Inokatsu steel receiver kit for the TM AK47. I was like hellz yeah, that's what I want. With ebay on my mind, I put some things up for sale, including my TM MC-51 custom. I let her go for $200. During the time before I purchased the kit, I e-mailed red wolf a couple times. I was concerned about it working with metal front sets (I have the G&P) and what I would need to attach the stock. You need a part from the ABS body to attach the stock, I don't have mine and I had to get a special order for it through trinity airsoft.
I bought the kit with my ebay winnings, and I was very happy that red wolf was offering free shipping on the kit. For those interested, also free shipping on the Inokatsu wood/metal kits. With the rest of my money I got me a King Arms selector plate and the Guarder AK switch set, not to mention a nice custom patch: http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h248/ComradeMP/Santa-Ana-Mercenary-3.gif Thanks engel!
I got my steel kit via fedex this morning. I was asleep and my parents merely threw it on the bed, this is what woke me up this morning. I joyfully ripped the brow paper off of the small box. The kit came in a rather modest little brown box with the Inokatsu steel kit promo poster on it in the form of a big sticker.
I opened up the box and found the parts in a tri-segmented air filled plastic bag. Aside from that, a couple of mini promo flyers for their wood kit and RPK kit, nothing. No directions, no nothing, I had to wing it. The parts that came in the kit include: steel ribbed cover, steel receiver, pistol grip, steel selector lever, a part that I don't know what to call, and some screws, a washer, and a spring.
The look, feel and build of the steel parts is amazing. You hold that receiver in your hands and you know it's steel. It seems to weigh more than my old G&P metal receiver, but the receiver wall seems to be thinner than the G&P one. The inokatsu finish compared to the G&P, the inokatsu wins hands down. The receiver looks like what it is, steel. The G&P seems to have a black paint job over the metal. For those of you with a love for russian gear, you in luck. Inokatsu steel receiver includes a side mount.
One difference about the inokatsu receiver is the method it attaches to the front. While other receivers use for screws to hold the front firmly in place, the inokatsu uses two in the mag well. Along with the two screws in the mag well, two inwards bent parts at the front of the receiver slide into an opening at either side at the back of the front set of the AK.
One concern of mine, and the subject of a few of my e-mails to red wolf, was the ability of the inokatsu receiver to take a non TM AK47 ABS front, in my case my G&P metal front. I was told, "No, they won't fit properly." I checked for myself and it did indeed seem to work fine with my G&P metal front. The only thing I saw as a minor problem, was a bit of a open space at the left side of front set. Other than that, I see no problem getting a metal front to go with the inokatsu receiver.
Another concern of mine was if the screw holes in the mag well would line up with the threads at the bottom of the front set. Indeed after some moving back and forth, they lined up.
Here's a bit of a comparison between my old G&P receiver and the inokatsu receiver. While I enjoyed having my G&P body, the inokatsu body adds more of a realistic feel to the AK. Another thing, the method of holding the sling loop in place is a P shaped piece of metal with an angled V shaped bottom keeping the retainer for the sling loop in place. If that piece fell away, the sling loop and retainer could fall out. On the Inokatsu receiver , there is a piece of steel on both sides of the inside of the receiver bolted to the receiver wall. This keeps the sling loop and retainer firmly in place.
Now the miscellaneous parts in that little bag. Hell, I don't know what they are for. Being that there were no instructions, I don't know if they go anywhere. And from putting my gun back together, I don't think you need any of them. Toss them in the parts bin I guess, never know when you might need a screw or something.
I have a EG1000 motor, burned out my EG700, and the wires run to the motor a bit different. There was a bit of pressing against the wiring when I put the gearbox in the receiver. It was a tight fit, but it went in. As you can see, the trigger guard pushes against the gearbox. Also, the way the receiver takes the pistol grip is a bit different so any other pistol grip besides the Inokatsu would require some modding, even then it might not fit quite right. The Inokatsu provided pistol grip seems to be made of Fiber glass/nylon. When I tried to get it on, the threads at the bottom of the motor mount didn't quite line up with the screw hole on the pistol grip. I took a large cutting utensil and bore out the screw hole, now this made keeping the pistol grip in place impossible. So I took the screw from the old selector lever assembly and used it to screw the pistol grip in place. It's easier to put in the pistol grip if you remove the trigger guard.
I removed the inokatsu trigger guard while I put in the pistol grip and I decided to put in the old TM trigger guard. Not only did it cover up a bit more of the gearbox seen by the trigger, but it doesn't push against the gearbox. Though, if you press down on the part of the trigger guard by the pistol grip, it will go down and then come up, but that's not a problem. I suggest leaving on the new trigger guard if the movement from the TM trigger guard bothers you. The new trigger guard requires you to remove the small spring and trigger release latch from the old one and put it in the new one.
The stock mounts to a part similar to the one at the end of the G&P metal body. The inokatsu relies that you transfer that part from your TM ABS body to the inokatsu receiver. It's part AK-38 if you would refer to your TM AK47 manual. Now the part on the G&P body DOES NOT COME OFF, it's integrated into the body. One the TM body it is not integrated and comes off with the removal of a couple screws. Most after market metal AK receivers need you to remove that part and place it on the new metal body. The G&P body did not, If it wasn't for the G&P body I would have kept that all important stock mount from my ABS body when I sold it. DAM YOU G&P!!!!! For those of you looking to purchase a receiver, keep you ABS body!!! It's been one hell of a time looking for that part, which I managed to special order through Trinity Airsoft.
I've made it this far, the stock is not attached to the body since I am still waiting on that part from trinity, the top cover is a nice modern ribbed cover. Compared to my old Guarder ribbed cover, the inokatsu is much better looking since it doesn't have these marks and lines from the finishing. The cover was hard to get on, so hard that I gave up because I had things to do. The body does not have these little hooks that the plastic bolt carrier attaches to or the screw hole for the screw that seats the bolt carrier in the gun. I would suggest a Guarder steel bolt carrier, since it doesn't use the plastic bolt carrier like the TM and it's more realistic. Guarder steel bolt carrier not to be confused with the Guarder Auto Back steel bolt carrier.
A couple things about the inokatsu receiver:
The slots that the selector lever stops on to OK, the only thing is that on mine, it doesn't stop on the full auto notch and it does not have a notch for the safe setting. Nothing major, but it could bother some. The original TM selector lever could work better with the body, but it's not as good looking as the inokatsu selector lever. It's hard as hell to get the cover on. Getting the mag in is easy but if you don't do it a certain way, the lip of the mag doesn't stay in place and comes out.
All in all, the kit is great. If you don't mind doing a few things here and there then go for it if you have the money and the will to sport a realistic AK. The body adds a bit more weight to the gun, a little more so than my G&P body. There's a feeling of sturdiness, and the of steel will make you feel good.
Pros:
Steel construction
Free shipping on this item from red wolf (at the time of my purchase, who know how much longer it will be offered as such)
Adds a more realistic look to you gun
Sling loop is held in place by a bolted metal part
Comes with a side mount
+/- Give your gun a bit more weight
You need part AK-38
Cons:
May require some adjusting here and there
Cover is hard as hell to get on
Proprietary pistol grip
Selector lever could be a bit iffy
Mag insertion can be a bit iffy
Nice, AK74 NSTA2. I'll use both AK74 and AK47 mags. If you ask why, AK74 NSTA2 can switch between both calibers with a quick barrel change so there!
Probably the first accessory I really 'really' wanted when I started airsofting was the fritz style helmet... similar variations are named KEVLAR, SWAT, PASGT, M88, which are pretty much all the same... This versatile helmet allows to install standard camo covers which would turn it into a helmet for any kind of modern scenario... if you're reenacting WWII, you could also wear it when you play German without feeling out of place.
Price
There are many variations and brands of this type of helmet and they all go for about 40 euros. There is a STAR helmet that goes for 25 euros but I've heard that they come with no lining inside, and thus, they wobble around your head as you walk or run. Unfortunately, I don't know the brand of the helmet featured on this article since it didn't show anywhere, but I can tell you that I bought it at Campobase (item# AC-0744). They also have it in olive drab for those who want a more military look.
Value
The helmet price is right. There are many out there, but I doubt any would compare to this one in quality. Here in Athens I've seen beat up used military helmets anywhere from 50 to 120 euros... absolutely ridiculous.
Construction
It is so well built that I was impressed when I held it. It's built with hard ABS plastic and it's masterfully crafted in and out. Thought this is a REPLICA, meaning NON-BALLISTIC, it is so strong and so well padded that it feels like a biker's helmet. You really don't want to get a real helmet for airsoft purposes... they are heavy and you will have a killer neckpain the following morning. We play for fun, leave the discomfort to the real soldiers... take it easy on yourself and get one of these light non-ballistic models.
The strap clips are strong and the chin supporter is made of some kind of rubber that sticks to your skin. Remember that roll of foam I had leftover from the Sansei SG5 Mask? Well, it came in handy since I used a piece on the inside to prevent it from sticking to the chin, which can become bothersome after you sweat for a while.
If I could describe the inside look and feel of the helmet with only one word, I would say "BMW". 'nuf said.
Weight
Approximately 550 grams. But it's so comfortable that when you wear it, after a minute you forget you even have it on.
Balance
As long as you get the right size for your head (as I did), this helmet will fit you like a balaclava. It will stay put no matter how much you jump, run or turn, it will not dance about. The padding all around it is very good that it would safely protect you if you fall and hit a rock with your head. Like I said before, it's so good it feels like a bikers helmet.
Weaknesses
Pretty much there's only one weakness... the inside padding is glued to the helmet itself, so you cannot pull it out to wash it, and believe me, you will NEED to wash it. Your forehead will start sweating crazy after a few minutes, and that's if you're just standing around.
My proposed remedy? Wear a bandana. That will prevent the helmet's padding from excesive sweating and will last longer without needing a wash.
Conclusion
Despite it's only weakness, which is only a minor one, I strongly recommend this particular helmet. When you buy it, you'll be glad you did.
By Gibson 854321
Published: August 7, 2005 PrintEmail
Story
I went to Jungletoy to get some bbs and I went and showed my mom what I wanted for my birthday. It was the Infinity Tactical Vest. It was only forty dollars and she bought it. I was supposed to get this vest for my 15th birthday. And I begged my mom to give it to me as an early birthday gift, she broke and I got it early.
There are pockets on the front and slots on the back to add more accessories.
Accessories
I opened it up and I found out that the vest smelt awkward at first, almost like a leather smell. I ignored it for while and found out that it was the material that made the sniper stock shoulder pad. The smell went away after a couple of games I played with it. The vest has six pouches made to hold six M16 sized magazines; the pieces of cloth stuck into the pouches are removable and stretch so they can fit a tank of green gas in the pocket.
The vest has shotgun shell holders for up to five shotgun shells.
There is also a radio pouch on the left shoulder that is small on the bottom and larger in the upper part of the pocket. The radio I used was too big for the pouch so I just stored the radio in the pouch under the shotgun shell holder.
The pouch I stored the radio in was under the radio pouch.
The vest has belt loops that are fully adjustable, this is very handy because it makes your vest and belt into a single piece so you can just leave your belt on and just grab your vest and head out on your way to your game.
There are Para-cords so you can adjust it to your size, but when I adjusted it to my size, there was too much left over and no where to put it, so I just wrapped it around itself and headed out to my game. I did not trip on them and they did just what they are supposed to do.
On the inside of the vest there are map pouches on both the left and right, very useful for operations. I store energy bars in there when I go out into a night op and munch on them while I recon enemy positions.
There are D-Rings on the shoulder, which I haven’t used yet, but I think will come in handy to some of you airsofters. The frontal zipper zips from the left and not the right and some of you are familiar with. It is metal and you do not need to struggle with it to get it zipped up.
In between the pockets and on the back is a mesh so that you do not overheat during a game. There is also a water pack pouch on the inside back of the vest. For extended ops this can be very useful.
The vest has 3 rows of attachment straps on the back I personally have never needed them, but if you are in groups your teammates can grab their needed supplies from your back.
You can see the mesh and the camel pack straw coming out of the vest.
Comfort
Wearing the vest is very comfortable, and there is plenty of room for extra movement. I did not feel so pack in tight when I wear it. If you pack it too tight to yourself, then there would be no room to get your map. The mesh makes playing in heated weather much cooler so comfort you more during the game.
The weight of the vest fully loaded is only about 5-6 pounds and is not much when you are in the heat of a firefight. The weight is well balanced out with a lot of things in the pockets, I put magazines in the where the magazines are supposed to go, and a pocketknife in the shotgun shell pouch. I put two batteries in the pouch across of the shotgun shell pouch/straps. And it seemed as if the weight balanced pretty well, not too heavy on one side, not too light on the other side.
Overall
This vest really great for the price, it is not an actual military vest, but was made in the direction for airsofting. It is not an actual military vest but still has potential to last for a while. There are many pockets to store what you need in the vest and the belt loop makes it great for extra storage on your belt, but the vest has already enough pockets to store items in. I have experienced only a little loss of storage, so that is why I use the belt for it. If you want a cheap starting tactical vest then this vest will fulfill your search.
By Sig552Seals
Published: August 6, 2005 PrintEmail
First Impressions
This comes with the loader and the attachment to load pistol magazines (more on this later). When I first got this I was pretty excited because I had just ordered 3 standards with it. I heard that this was great for reloading in the field if you ran out of ammo. Naturally, I bought one since my standard magazine count now went up to four (4). So I opened it up, it was nothing special so far. So I loaded it up and went to work clicking away into my standards. I was amazed at how easy this was compared to doing it with the loading rod.
You can see “Tokyo Marui CO. LTD. MADE IN JAPAN” engraved on the side of the loader.”
How to use
To lock the plunger mechanism down simply push down on the plunger, you will hear a click and the push the button on the side of the loader that says “push lock” and then you have it locked in place. To use it again simply push the button that says “push open” and then the plunger should pop up. If it does not, do not worry just push the plunger down until it pops up. Now, to the pistol magazine loader. This comes with the speed loader in the package. It’s not that hard to put on or understand so I’m nothing going to go into anything about it.
You can see all the workings of the loader
Performance
This thing works great. It works almost flawlessly, it some times give you problems when you fill it up to much, but it just takes 1 or 2 clicks to start pumping the BBs into the magazine, other times the plunger will stick after you keep in the plunger down into the loader (as seen in the picture below). It takes about 18 depressions of the plunger to fill my TM M16 standards.
Here you can see it says “Marui BB loader”
I did a test to see how many BBs would come out each time I pushed down on the plunger and the average was 4, here are the test results anyways.
Test one
The number on the right shows the number of BB’s that came out per click. The number on the left shows the number of BBs that came out each time was 3, 4, or 5.
3: 4
4: 21
5: 5
Second test
3: 4
4: 24
5: 2
Here you can see the BB door open
Pros
+ Very easy to use
+ It’s very sturdy
+ It can turn into the size of a pistol magazine
+ It helps me out a lot with loading (can’t wait to get more).
Cons
- I did not buy more.
- Can't use it on G&P midcaps.
Inside view of where the BBs go
Conclusion
I would suggest these to any one who has a couple of standards lowcaps. The ration I was thinking if your standards have more than 60 rounds in them, 1 loaders for every 2 magazines. I do not suggest these for G&P midcaps as they for some reason do not work, all the BBs do is spit out after you put about 60 BBs into it.
BlackHawk1 - February 12, 2009 I have to disagree with your claim that the loader will not load a G&P MidCap. I have owned 3 G&P MP5 MidCaps, and the loader you reviewed was what I used every time to fill them up. Never once encountered a problem.
I received the Rico Alpha-9 flashlight along with my G&G GR-16a2 both coming from Redwolf Airsoft. I must say off the bat that I had my doubts on the practicality of having a flashlight attached to your gun figuring that the enemy would see the light much easier than I can see them with the light. I assumed the light would just not pack enough punch to really be worth it. But it did provide a cool look, the built in LED lights for navigational reasons, as well as the vertical grip which I was interested in, so I was not going to be disappointed if it did not help me in action. The specifications on Redwolf Airsoft however begin to paint you a more accurate picture of this project. The light delivers a 250 lumen output and was originally designed for actual military use, so this should tell you that this is not your Wal-Mart flashlight, and it is not a toy but a serious flashlight designed for weaponry. It also has a 3mm poly-carbonate lens making it virtually indestructible to airsoft gun fire. This flashlight is solid as should be figured with a weight like 640g.
The LED Lights
This is the two LED lights in the dark while mounted to gun
I assume like me, you do not understand what the LED lights are, and why they are there. But everyone can tell that they look pretty cool when turned on. LED stands for Light-Emitting Diode and are lights that do not give off heat like most lights we know of today. This means that the energy going into the light is used only for lighting and not for heat, thus saving energy. They also provide more of a glowing look than what we are used to. You may see LEDs in some cars, or new traffic lights because they are becoming more and more common. There is however practical reasons behind having the lights and that is for stealth navigation. I know they look bright in the picture above, but they are not as bright as they may seem. They give off a glow, that you can easily shield and direct towards a piece of paper you need to read, a door handle, a trail, anything like that. This allows you to get enough light just so you and your team can see what they want to see, and its easy enough to block out from anyone else picking up on the light. Of course if you just shine this light around in the woods while looking for someone, expect to experience a hail of BB’s because it can be seen. It is however much easier to conceal than most lights.
This is the light pointing at the ground (grass). As can be seen it is kind of dull despite being right against the ground, and is concentrated.
This is another expamle of using the LED lights and this time it is mounted on the gun as you can see the barrel of the GR16-a2
The Main Lamp
The main lamp packs a 250 lumen punch as mentioned above, and for those who do not have an appreciation for light measurements I will have to describe it to you. Unfortunately the pictures all came out blurry due to slight haze which is common for nights in my area, and because I am not a professional photographer and these pictures are difficult to take. I am hoping to find an indoor place to take example pictures of because then it would be much clearer how powerful this light is. You can go into any dark household room, hit the light and the entire room is instantly illuminated, sometimes better than if the actual lights were on. For larger rooms obviously it will depend on where you aim it, but light will reach every corner of any room unless it is warehouse or gymnasium size rooms. This would really be ideal for dark CQB arenas since it would give you instant light in any situation and also blind any opponent it is aimed at. The outdoors however is the way I typically work, so that is the only experience I will relate to, and is the only images I can currently provide.
Large bush/tree from about 50 yards
As can be seen in the picture above, this light is more concentrated when you are in the outdoors and large areas. This is simply because in rooms it will reflect off of all surfaces consequently lighting up wider areas. But the light itself is a pretty concentrated and powerful beam that is practically a small spotlight (which is exactly what you want to have for a light). This is probably the clearest picture I was able to get, and as can be seen if anyone was in or around that tree, they would have been easily spotted and most likely shot.
Hard to make out, but it is a treeline about 100 yards away
The picture above is as best I could do to demonstrate the power and range on this light, and unfortunately I still do not feel that it was done justice due to poor images and the haze. It may be hard to tell in the picture but the light is focused on some tall grass at the base of a tree line, which where I play is a likely enemy position, and this light made it quite obvious that no one was in that position. Unfortunately, it is probably hard to tell that through the picture considering you do not know what it looks like in the day time, and the camera is not exactly perfect to how well your own eyes can see.
Operation
There is a switch, pressure buttons on the grip, and one button above the vertical grip. These combine to give you all the options you’ll need on your light. The switch is a circular object which has 3 positions it can take and controls the main lamp. It can be in the center which means that the main light will not go on if the grip is squeezed, there is a right position which is that the light will go on when the grip is squeezed and off when the grip is released, and there is a left position in which the light will go on and stay on regardless of the grip. The vertical grip has two buttons, one on each size which operate the light when the switch is in the right position. The final button is for the LED lights and is above the vertical grip. This button works at anytime regardless of the switches position.
You can see the switch behind the lamp, and the grips on the light vertical grip
This is the LED light button above the vertical grip
The light as can be seen in the picture above has two knobs which can attach the light, and detach it from any gun which has a weaver style rail, so no more mounting equipment is required. It simply slides right on, you secure it tightly, and it can be slid right back off when the knobs are loosened. Very simple really. The light takes 3 CR123A batteries which fit in the handle of the light as can be seen in the image below. These batteries are seen a lot in cameras so you probably can only find them in camera stores. However if you buy from camera stores you most likely will pay a fairly high price for these batteries, and that is why I recommend searching for them online because you get more reasonable prices.
You unscrew the bottom of the grip, and in goes 3 CR123A batteries
Conclusion
I really like the light and I have yet to see a better one on the airsoft field. If you really want a powerful light and are serious about it, this is the product for you. This is not a toy as I said before, and is nearly as good as it gets for a mount light on an airsoft gun. It undoubtedly would help you in airsoft situations lacking appropriate lighting, whether it be outdoors or indoors. You also will find that Redwolf Airsoft beats the rest when it comes to pricing on this product. My doubts stopped pretty much as soon as I saw the power of this thing, as you can see people with it out of airsoft range! That is the kind of power you need for it to be successful. You need the light to light up the entire opponent for your entire team to see, and be far enough away so that you most likely will not get shot. You also have the advantage of seeing where your BB's go in the night, while the opponent will only see a blinding light!
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